Writer Darragh J. Mullooly ventures away from the Emerald Isle and embarks on a three-month tour of India. On the way he braves the infamous Indian roads, makes new friends, tries Carnatic singing, oh, … and finds inner peace. Learn from his experiences and plan your own trip to India…
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Shanti-Shanti: Finding Peace in Mother India
Growing up on the untamed West coast of Ireland, I always wondered what existed beyond the Atlantic horizon. As a teenager I would sit on the stony Celtic shore staring out to sea. For myriad reasons, it always instilled a great sense of respect in me; a reverence for the majesty of the natural world. In those moments, I would wonder what other glorious horizons existed on earth.
My teens and early twenties saw short spells of European travels which sparked a fire of wanderlust. It’s that enigmatic “travel-bug” that we often hear about but too-often ignore. A want, a need, an innate aspiration to explore every corner and crevice, both imaginable and unconceivable. In December 2013, after time spent blissfully trapped on the Emerald isle, my wanderlust was reawakened as I was sent on a writing assignment to the other side of the world.
Many wanderers would cite India as: a contrast, insane, complex, but most of all, peaceful. In reality there are no single words or phrases that can fully encapsulate the multifaceted experience that this vibrant country has to offer.
It was a three-month trip that perfectly captured every sight, scent, and sound that I had hoped for, and a few that I hadn’t! Mother India’s South-Western coastline etched memories in my mind that, to this day, still stand out in unadulterated joy and bemusement.
Following an onerous flight from Dublin I landed in the country’s smallest state, Goa – a setting renowned for its chilled vibes, vibrant party scene, white-sand beaches, and Arabian Sea views. I can only describe the commute from Dobalim Airport to Palolem beach as the most terrifying ‘spin’ that I’ve ever experienced.
Partying in Palolem
My driver hurtled through the back-roads of Goa in our rickety white taxi, dodging sacred cattle and wide-eyed locals. A death-defying introduction to the insane motoring habits of Indian folk is the only way to articulate it. Hints of safety were summoned by the makeshift Shiva alter shaking atop the vehicle’s dusty black dashboard. Despite Samar’s lunacy behind the wheel, I hoped the Gods would get us there in one piece; and of course they did.
So, getting there was quite a mission, a treacherous tunnel to a new world, akin to being born – it’s terrifying, new and sometimes messy, but once my feet stood on the golden Palolem sand and the glisten of the Arabian Sea caught my eye, I knew that I was exactly where I was meant to be.
Palolem offers the most stunning stretch of beach, lined with dozens of very funky bars, restaurants with intoxicating Indian delicacies and flocks of lush green coconut trees. As one of Goa’s best market towns, it’s a real Aladdin’s cave of delights. Any nomad, no matter what their taste or sensibilities, can pick up delicate fabrics, any sized statuette, gold and silver jewellery, and anything in between. Be sure to check out Leopard Valley which is located between Palolem and Agonda. Every weekend the famed music venue plays host to the finest international and local DJs, like DJ Gail Mendez and Ministry of Sound’s Eve Carey – an atmosphere that is certainly not to be missed.
Hanging in Hampi
A six-hour overnight bus took me to the ancient city of Hampi, Karnataka. Full to gills with history, this temple city wholly embodies the rich, spiritual culture of the Indian people. Known around the world as one of India’s most hallowed places, Hampi houses a large collection of ruined temples that were erected to honour the equally large collective of Hindu deities: Vishnu, Ganesha and Krishna, to name but a few. Thousands flock to the divine capital each year to pay homage to their Gods and Goddesses.
A two-minute boat ride across the Tungabhadra River will take you to Hampi Island. This quaint, paddy-field paradise is home to guesthouses, bars, market stalls and restaurants – it’s the tourist side of the river where you’ll get the best priced accommodation and grub.
During my two-weeks in Hampi, the stand out element was its contrasting landscape. A rare mix of lush green rice fields and coconut trees, juxtaposed with desert terrain and volcanic rock. The best way to see Hampi Island is to hire a scooter/moped, available outside any of the hostels on the main street. Don’t forget to check out the incredible monkey temple located 3km outside the village for an awe-inspiring panoramic view of the fertile countryside – just be careful of the hungry monkeys at the top and watch your step going back down!
Cultured Cochin
While Palolem and Hampi stole my attention, Fort Cochin stole my heart. Nowhere in India spoke to me more than this impressive colonial and cultural haven, in the tropical state of Kerala (God’s own country as it’s known by the locals).
While wondering about the streets of Cochin, it’s easy to forget you are still in India. The famous port town beautifully encapsulates the magic, culture and feel of a modern, vibrant and stylish European escape, somehow retaining its essential Indian-ness.
No matter where you drop in India, all travellers somehow become locals; getting to know shop owners, bar-staff, baristas and anyone else they happen to bump into. During my time here, I had the pleasure of interviewing some of the most amazing poets, musicians and artists.
Cochin offers a range of affordable homestays with local families, with plenty to do and see: Kathikali dance performance, Carnatic singing, Sitar concerts, and plethora of other traditional Indian entertainment. The Greenix Theatre, where all of this entertainment is on show, also offers short-long term courses in all of the traditional disciplines. For two weeks, I took a shot at Carnatic singing – with not-so melodic results.
Making my way back up the coast towards Goa, I took in Trivandrum City, Varkala beach, and Lighthouse Beach, before taking an arduous fourteen-hour train ride back to Goa (now, surreally, with a very large gramophone in tow).
Agonda Beach
Agonda Beach hosted my last days in paradise. Famed for its Yoga and Meditation training schools, and home to some of the best Indian cuisine that I encountered, it’s a true backpacker’s paradise. Here, I had the pleasure and privilege of meeting an American Yoga student, Sarah Sullivan.
Working in the fast-paced, high-pressure American corporate world, Sullivan made a daring move and left her life to start a new one as global wanderer. Inspired by Elizabeth Gilbert’s bestselling memoir, Eat, Pray Love, the fiery red-head hopped from Italy to Bali, and finally onto India, in search of peace and true uninhibited happiness. She found that right there on the Agondan coastline.
One my last day in heaven, sitting watching the sunset over the golden horizon, my mind hearkened back to home. The peace and tranquillity that my Celtic shore stirred in me was equally matched by the Arabian Sea’s majestic glow. And here I sit waiting impatiently for my next visit to wonderland, wondering what horizon is next on my list?
By Darragh J. Mullooly