Writer and traveller Julia Bencker describes how she overcame her fears to become a mountain biker. She also shares her experiences of mountain biking in New Zealand as she takes on some of the country’s famous trails.
Mountain Biking In New Zealand
I am not a courageous person. At least not when it comes to adrenaline-fuelled action sports like bungee-jumping, diving with sharks, free climbing, … or mountain biking. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy trying new things and wouldn’t rule out any of these activities. There must be a reason why so many people get up at some impossible hour, pack their gear, and risk their lives in pursuit of their hobbies … and even manage to take photos of themselves while doing so!
However, in this story, I want to tell you about the part the Facebook photos don’t show – that being the hard and painful learning process one has to endure before the triumphant pose at the end.
I haven’t touched a mountain bike since I was a kid. My parents were very enthusiastic mountain bikers, so my sisters and I were often forced to partake in “amazing” tours up the steep and stony tracks of the Bavarian Alps. What sounds like pure bliss to others (mostly grown-ups, I’m convinced), was torture, and hell for the nine-year-old me. Cycling can be so much fun on flat terrain – why do people have this irrational desire to cycle upwards? It can’t be for the terrifying downhill ride on the other side, during which any sane person would keep tight hold of their brakes until they were back down again … right?
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Dun Mountain MTB Trail in Nelson, New Zealand
But here I am, standing at the bottom of the Dun Mountain Trail in Nelson, New Zealand, which also serves as the entrance to the Codgers MTB Park. The map we found online showed intermediate trails that we could take on our way down. My partner and I are both experienced trekking cyclists, so we thought we could take on one of the more challenging rides without any major issues. It would serve as a gentle introduction to a new hobby we could do as a couple. Already on the way up, I am cursing under my breath – my front wheel constantly lifts from the ground on the steep bits, making it difficult for me to gain any confidence in my new bike. My bike also lacks both front and rear suspension, a fact I regret with every little stone I ride over. I feel like I’m riding a jackhammer.
After 45 minutes of non-stop uphill riding, we finally reach the entrance of the IV line: a Grade 3 single track. Five metres into the narrow path, I clutch my brakes in panic. There is a big rock in my way and, following it, a frighteningly steep descent. This is not ‘intermediate’, this is death reaching out for me! I am literally frozen: unable to go backwards or forwards. My partner comes back for me, trying to calm me down with words of support and trying to give me tips on how to overcome the obstacle. It doesn’t help. I dismount and walk around it. I am so scared. What am I doing here?
Past the rock, the trail looks a bit less psychotic. I remount my steed and continue riding. For a few minutes, I worry only about the steep drop to my left. If my bike decides to carry me off the trail, I will, without a doubt, get seriously hurt. As my mind wanders conjures up these reassuring thoughts, I am confronted by a huge root with a steep descent behind it. Again, I slam on the brakes and come to a sudden stop. I can’t do this. I am a chicken, I am terrified, I don’t trust my skills or my bike. I, a 29 year-old woman, start to cry in the middle of a mountain bike park. Again, my partner comes to the rescue, but the rest of the trail doesn’t go any better. After what seemed like lifetime, we are back at the car, unhurt. Intermediate is definitely not what I am, it seems.
Murray Creek MTB Track
On the next day, we try our luck again in Reefton. This old gold miner’s town is well-known for its mountain bike trails on the West Coast. It took my partner a lot of convincing to get me back on my mountain bike to give it another shot. The trail we wanted to ride is called Murray’s Creek. The friendly lady at the i-Site (New Zealand’s official visitor information network) describes it as Intermediate but, more importantly, it’s not a single track. I’m hoping I’ll feel a bit safer if I have some space on the left and right to make mistakes when my courage fails me.
Fortunately, my nerve holds. The way up again is exhausting and not fun at all. It takes us about 2 hours to reach the highest point. However – thankfully – the ride down is fun and challenging – and not nearly as scary as yesterday. Maybe there is still hope for my mountain biking career.
Mountain Biking In Wanaka: Dean’s Bank Loop
Fast forward a few weeks later. It’s getting cold outside, autumn and the low season for tourism have finally arrived. Our boss gave us a few days off, so we could get up early and take the road to Wanaka, one of New Zealand’s most famous mountain biking spots. As we arrive, we can see that everything here is targeted towards either mountain bikers or winter sports enthusiasts. We find a nice little bike shop and buy a map of all the trails around Wanaka. The shop assistant recommends us to take the easy, scenic route along Lake Wanaka and the Clutha River until we reach Albert Town. From the campground there, the Dean’s Bank loop track winds through rolling hills and a pine forest for about 12 kilometres. It is graded Intermediate, but it looked doable on a Youtube video we watched a few days ago.
At this point, I am still undecided whether I love or hate mountain biking. In the last few weeks, I had mixed experiences. Some of the trails we had ridden were fun, but the majority felt like a lot of ‘pain’ for little ‘gain’. Still, I am too stubborn to give up so quickly, and besides, my partner really, really likes it. So, it was for him that I pushed myself to my limits time and time again.
Fortunately, the weather today is perfect and the ride along the lake and the river is not only easy and fun, but also incredibly scenic. The Wanaka Autumn Colours are on full display. The pale autumn sun sets the red, orange and yellow-colored tree leaves on fire and the deep blue of Lake Wanaka is dazzling. That’s how I like my cycling, not only focused on the exercise but with time to explore and enjoy nature’s gifts. After a short lunch break at the camp ground, we haul our bikes over the barrier that separates Dean’s Bank from the tent sites.
Right from the first minute, I absolutely love the track. The first obstacle is a ride up through some banked turns which I find challenging, but manageable. Once on top, we are rewarded with stunning views over a pleateau. There are bushes heavy with crimson rosehips that stand in strong contrast to the ochre color of the soil. In the distance, one can admire the snow-capped mountain tops of the Southern Alps. And, as if that’s not enough, the Clutha River flows by on our left, glittering in the afternoon sun.
An MTB Convert
This is New Zealand at its best. We continue cycling up and down the flowing track, first on the plateau and then entering a pine forest, where things get a bit trickier. There are numerous roots and sizeable rocks on the trail, and it gets pretty steep at times. But, armed with my new, hard-earned experience, I am able to tackle almost all the obstacles the track throws at me without dismounting – and certainly without crying. I am having a blast!
This is what mountain biking should feel like. It took courage – and practice – to overcome my initial fears, but, right here, on Dean’s Bank Track, I feel extremely proud of myself. I have found myself a new, exciting hobby.
Julia Bencker